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Cairo by night

So, You Find Yourself in Cairo

From the moment you first step into the chaotic swirl of Cairo, it may take a day or so to find your feet. In fact, if you haven’t slept off the jetlag, you may find the frenzied city completely overwhelming. But that’s just how Cairo hits you in the beginning: like prize-fighter’s punch. So step back, smile, and take a deep breath, because if you take the time to look beyond the bustling madness of the ancient exhaust-choked streets, you’ll be rewarded with some of the world’s oldest treasures.

Most of Cairo’s tourism trade is based on the ancient civilisation that stood on its very soil before 1000AD. The city is brimming with interesting historical curiosities, and the many thousands of people making a buck off them. From the world-famous pyramids (which are a short ride out of town, in Giza) to the historic Egyptian Museum, home of the gold burial mask of boy-king Tutankhamen, and more mummified humans than an episode of Scooby Doo.

As an outsider, you may find you’re a target for street hawkers and local businessmen pushing all types of wares, from hand-made perfumes to dodgy artworks on papyrus scrolls of questionable authenticity. But in Cairo, you simply have to stick to your own schedule and never be afraid to reel out a polite, ‘No thank you.’  Although, once you see what this city has on offer, you’ll more than likely find yourself saying, ‘Sure, why not?’

A Day in Town

A day is not a whole lot of time in Cairo. In fact, if you really wanted to get all Indiana Jones and discover everything the city has to offer, you’d need a lifetime. But with time of the essence it’s best to stick to the truly world-class attractions. And Cairo is chock full of them.

A half-hour bus ride from Cairo, in the ancient town of Giza, you’ll find one of the worlds’ seven wonders: the Great Pyramids. Make sure you catch the tourist bus from the Egyptian Museum. Every taxi driver that passes by will proposition you for a ride, but resist the temptation. The tourist bus arrives roughly every half-hour and will take you to the Pyramids in air-conditioned comfort. For roughly twenty US dollars on top of your small admission fee, you’ll be able to enter the Great Pyramid of Keops – the largest of the three main pyramids. And for a little extra ‘baksheesh’ you could score yourself a personal guided tour of the fascinating underground cave network from one of the local hawkers.

For a condensed, close up walk-through of Egypt’s fascinating history, make sure you check out the Egyptian Museum. It houses the world’s largest collection of Egyptian antiquities, from sarcophagi and ancient boats, to giant statues and huge assembly of mummies and masterpieces.

A Night on the Town

If you think about club-hopping and propping yourself up on bar-stools, Cairo is probably not the first city that comes to mind. Being predominately Muslim, alcohol and all-night partying is predominately a no-no; but look just below the surface and you’ll find plenty of ways to let your hair down in this city of contradiction.

Pub 28 in the Zamalek district is the kind of cosy watering hole you might find in the back streets of your own home town. One thing glaring difference, though, is seeing the patrons walk in with their own bottles. This jumping joint is completely BYO, so you can bring your favorite drop and they’ll throw it on ice for you for a small corkage fee.

If you feel like throwing your Egyptian pound into the wind, try the famous Casino d‘Egypt downtown. It’s one of the only places in town where you can have legal flutter and maybe even leave with more cash than you walked in with.

When it’s time to wind down and shut out the madness on the streets, kick back at Blues, a laird-back piano bar, just out of town in Giza. You’ll hear all the same lounge standards you’d expect from any jazz quartet in any smoky bar back home, but it’s a completely different experience when you know it’s all happening a few hundred meters from the ancient pyramids. 

A Taste of the City

There are many smells to take in as you traverse the streets, of Cairo; some good, many not so good. But one of the great things you’ll inhale is the sweet smell of exotic pastries. Make sure you try the sweet treats on offer as you snack your way through the city. Then, when it comes to dining out, be prepared for an experience all on its own.

Of course for the finest culinary experiences, you’re best off looking in the towering five-star hotels, but for an authentic Egyptian feast, you must first look at street level. Under the Dokki bridge in Tahir Street, you’ll find one of the city’s authentic khosherys Kohsheri Afandina.  The traditional staple, the kosheri, is a fairly simple mix of pasta, lentils and rice with a rich tomato sauce, and this place is the authority. They also dish up a range of desserts unlike anything you’ll find anywhere along the Nile.
Felfela is a major tourist stop-off, but don’t let the all the cameras slung around diners’ necks fool you, this is a place the locals can’t go past, either. Try their mouth-watering mezze selections, or if you’re game to try the local game, the stuffed pigeon is probably the best you’ll find in the city. And you’ll never look at the little grey pests the same way again.

A Place to Sleep

Every budget is catered for when it comes to finding a place to rest your bones in Cairo. As always, when you’re looking for certain minimum standards in a foreign city, stick to the chain hotels for basic consistency. Accommodation can be cheap, with many privately-owned hotels offering sparse, basic private rooms that won’t break the bank. Just don’t expect the elevator to work, or any level of hygiene to be kept.

In the centre of Cairo’s business district, you’ll find the multi-storey Concorde Hotel. It’s an affordable option with a modern edge, which can be comforting factor when you’re returning from a day in the sand and dust of the ancient city.

If you’re willing to splash out on the five-star experience, you’ll find complete luxury at the Four Seasons Hotel Cairo Nile Plaza. Many visitors staying at this hotel would probably find no reason to step outside, apart from a quick trip to the pyramids or the museum down the road. The Four Seasons has all the amenities you’d expect from a luxury hotel, but it’s one of only a few in the world with uninterrupted views of the Nile.